The narrow walkways are empty, but the bars and restaurants crowded. It is almost midnight and visitors, tourists as well as people living in this beautiful town are out to enjoy the warm evening, having dinner with friends. Tables are covered with food of any kind. Few people are walking around. We do that tonight, first to find the place: Soul Kitchen, next to the Triopetra School of Yoga. And then to see a friend after he has finished his work of the day: Kostas, the owner of the Omodamos Clayart Shop.
We pay a visit to the buzzing waterfront bars, the ones close to the beach. Then turn around to have a closer look at some Tavernas that serve food and have a very special atmosphere due to their position in the narrow walkways that lead to the seafront and the castle. The candlelight plus the smell of the dishes served here make it hard to resist a stop, even for a shot of Ouzo. The waiters are inviting us to join the crowd, but we just smile and move on to the strip where bars and discos line up to wait for the customers finishing their meals and move over to the rhythmic part on the night. We take the steps to the castle and ask a waiter where to find the Soul Kitchen Restaurant. He sends us back down to the center, but we just can't believe to find the place down there. I stop at the floodlighted castle door and snap a few pictures, then make the slippery steps downwards and see what we find: The Soul Kitchen organic vegetarian restaurant is right next to the tourist trap that grills their goat and lamb chops in the open air, as if to make a statement. We find a cozy spot and order the beer that is brewed right here in Rethymno (in fact the brewery is located in the village of Armeni) and for the lady a "Cosmopolitan". Lounge music lulls us in and I continue snapping pictures. Then Kostas arrives and bear hugs us. He wears a t-shirt with a "evil inside" print on it, and just the contrary, he is the sweetest guy we know. He loves black humor and tells us stories of his long working hours and encounters with customers from all places in the world. The Soul Kitchen entertainment program of a piano night must have ended before, a piano and sheet music from U2 songs stand abandoned. But we don't care. It is the laughter and an endless stream of anecdotes that keeps us happy.